Shoe machine



y 4,1939. A. R. MORRILL 2,165,146

' SHOE MACHINE Original Filed Feb. 9, 1933 9 Sheets-Sheet l Zhwentorattorneys July 4, 1939. A. R. MORRILL SHOE MACHINE Original Filed Feb.9, 1933 9 Sheets-Sheet 2 W 2( gdventor Mflw w Gttorneg July 4, 1939. IMORRlLL 2,165,146

SHOE MACHINE Original Filed Feb. 9, 1933 9 Sheets-Sheet 3 Zhwentor I 4:I WW WM f 1 M7 Ctttor eg A. R. MORRILL 2,165,146

SHOE MACHINE Original Filed Feb. 9, 1933 9 Sheets-Sheet 4 July 4, 1939.

Zinnentor NM [JP NQN ww fl M July 4, 1939. A. R. MORRILL SHOE MACHINEori inal Fild Feb. 9. 1933 9 Sheets-Sheet 5 1939. A. R. MORRILL2,165,146

SHOE MACHINE Original Filed Feb. 9, 19:53 '9 Sheets-Sheet s MWMK Lattorneys 35 1939- I A. R. MQRRILL. 2,165,146

snom mcnmn Original Filed Feb. 9, 1933 9 Sheets-Sheet 7 attorney July 4,1939. R, MORRILL 2,165,146

SHOE MACHINE Original Filed Feb. 9, 1933 9 Sheets-Sheet s Snnentor v WZW,a/wwfv k attorney uly 4, 1939. A. R. MORRILL.

SHOE MACHIYNE Original Filed Feb. 9, 1933 9 Sheets-Sheet 9 Enventor W MGttorneg Patented July 4, 1939 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE SHOE MACHINEOriginal application February 9, 1933, Serial No.

655,934. Divided and this application November 16, 1937, Serial No.174,798

14 Claims.

The present invention relates to shoe machines, and is herein shown asembodied in a machine for operating on shoes of the type in which theshoe is supported on a jack and in which the jack and v the means foroperating on the shoe are moved relatively to transfer the point ofoperation about the shoe, and to change the relative positions of theshoe and the operating means to cause the shoe to be presented properlyto the operating means as the point of operation is transferred aboutthe shoe, all of the relative movements of the shoe and the operatingmeans being produced and controlled by automatically acting mechanisms.While the several features of the present invention are particularlyapplicable to automatic shoe machines of the type above referred to,certain features of the invention are also capable of use in other typesof automatic machines or in machines in which the shoe is held inposition by the operator. It is also to be understood that except asdefined in the claims, the several features of the invention are notlimited to any particular construction or arrangement of parts.

The machine hereinafter specifically described as embodying the severalfeatures of the present invention is an automatic machine for sewing thewelt and upper to the insole of a welted shoe. This machine isillustrated and described in great er detail in applicants co-pendingapplication Serial No. 655,934 filed February 9, 1933 of which thepresent application is a division, and is similar in the generalconstruction and mode of operation of its various parts to the automaticwelt sewing machine disclosed in applicants Patent No.

" 1,952,770 dated March 27, 1934, and in the patent to Topham and thepresent applicant No. 1,616,714 dated February 8, 1927.

It is a principal object of the present invention to provide anautomatic machine, having means forv sewing or otherwise securingtogether the upper and sole, or upper, welt and insole of a shoe,

a shoe supporting jack, and means for relatively moving the jack andoperating devices to transfer the point of operation progressivelyaround the shoe, which is well adapted for the simultaneous and moreparticularly the use of an automatic side lasting machine such, forinstance, as is disclosed in the patents to Lawson No. 1,706,619 datedMarch 26, 1929, and No. 1,854,204, dated April 19, 1932,

Other objects of the invention are to simplify and improve theconstruction and mode of operation of various parts of welt shoe sewingmachines, both of the automatic type above referred to, and of the typein which the shoe is presented 10 to the machine while held in thehandsof the operator.

With these objects in view, one feature of the present inventioncontemplates the provision, in an automatic welt sewing machine of thetype 15 above referred to, of a lasting gripper and means for actuatingand controlling the gripper in timed relation to the movement of thejack in transferring the point of operation of the stitch formingdevices about the shoe to draw the desired por- 2o tions of the uppertightly into position during the operation of the stitch forming devicesin attaching the welt and upper to the insole.

Other features of the invention contemplate the provision of novel andimproved means for sup- 25 porting and actuating lasting grippers andfor controlling the operation of the lasting gripper and welt slashingmechanism during the transfer of the operation about the shoe.

The several features of the invention consist 30 also in certaindevices, combinations and arrangements of parts hereinafter describedand claimed, which together with the advantages to be obtained therebywill be readily understood by one skilled in the; art from the followingdescription taken 35 in connection with the accompanying drawings, inwhich: Fig. 1 is a view in front elevation of an automatic lasting andwelt sewing machine embodying the several features of the presentinvention; Fig. 2 is a view in right side elevation 40 of the machinehead, the parts being shown in sewing position just prior to throwingthe welt slashing mechanism into operation; Fig. 3 is a view of themachine head in front elevation, the parts being shown in stoppedposition; Fig. 4 45 is a view in right side elevation, illustratingparticularly the needle and lasting gripper mechanisms and actuatingcams; Fig. 5 is a View in right side elevation of the control mechanismfor throwing the welt slasher into and out of operation, the parts beingshown in position just prior to the beginning of the welt slashing; Fig.6 is a view similar to Fig. 5 with the welt slashing mechanism inoperation; Fig. 7 is a detail sectional View taken on the line 1-1 ofFig. 6;

in retracted position; Fig. 12 is a view similar operating upon a shoecomprise a curved hooked x needle fifl, a looper 62, a thread finger 64,a

to Fig. 11, showing the knife in its advanced posi-' tion making aslashing cut in the welt; Fig; 13 is a plan view of the parts shown inFig. 12 a a and a'welt guide' 'H.

Fig. 14 is a detail sectional viewf' taken on the li i'i l4'i4 of Fig.12; Fig. 15'is a perspectiveView showing the relative positions of thewelt and'the knife in slashing the welt; Fig; 16 1s a detail sectionalplan view showing particularly the cam and certain of its operatingconnections for throwing the lasting and welt slashing devices position.

into and out of operatiom Fig. 17 is a detail plan view of the feedcarriage and the parts supported thereon; and Fig. 18 is a detail Viewin front elevation, partly in section, of the lasting grippers.

- The welt shoe sewing machine for sewing the welt to the upper andinsole of a shoe while supported on a last herein disclosed as'embodyingin a preferred form the several features of the present invention,comprises a sewing head generally indicated at 59 within which thesewing and side lasting instrumentalities are housed, a shoe supportingjack comprising a toe support 52 and a heel support '54 pivotallysecured thereto, a supporting base 56 within which ishousecl thesupporting and actuating mechanisms for imparting the required feeding,turning and tipping movements to the jack, and a drivingand stoppingunit for the machine which is housed ina casing 58 on the base adjacentto the sewing head 50.

Ashas been stated, the general construction and mode of operation of thevarious parts of the illustrated machine'are similar to thecorresponding parts of the automatic welt sewing mainthe proper positionwithrelation'tothe sewing instrumentalities. 'At the completion oifthesewing operation, the driving mechanism; for the camshaft in the head ofthe machine, and for the pattern camshaft in the'base, fromwhich thejack is actuated and controlled, is thrown out of operation, and anauxiliary mechanism is thrown into operation which acts to performcertain additional operations including the completion of the rotationof the pattern cam shaft, the depression and outward movement of thejack away from the sewing instrumentalities, and the reverse rotation ofthe' jack'to its original The shoe supporting jack'bomprising the" toesupport 52 and the heel-support pivotally secured thereto, is supported,actuated and;con-

trolled as in the machines of the patents above referred to. At itslower end'the jack is mounted by a'universal joint on the forwardfend'of a plane,-which supportis pivotally 'mounted for movements in asubstantially horizontal plane on a supporting member 594. The forkedlower end of the member 594 carries trunnions 599 arranged to engagewith corresponding bearings 598 in the machine frame. The movements ofthe several members of the jack are controlled through connectionsactuated by cams on the pattern cam shaf a As in the" machine of thepatents above referred to, the devices of the present machine for threadholder or gripper 69, a channel guide 68,

In addition to these de- Vices the present machine also is provided witha side lasting gripper comprising jaws indicated respectivelyv at i2 andi4. Cooperating move- .ments are imparted to these devices for operatingo'n' the' shoe-from a sewing cam shaft 18 (see Fig. 7

1,) whichis mounted to rotate on a horizontal a'xis in bearings in thesewing head 59, and is provided'at one end with a spiral gear I8arranged to mesh with a corresponding spiral gear 89 which isformedintegrally with a clutch sleeve 82 loosely mounted 'to turn on averticaldrive shaft 84 ofthe machine. The shaft 84 is continuouslydriven through reduction gearing from an electric motor mounted in theupper end of the casing 58.

The control mechanism for imparting positioning and feeding movements tothe jack, are arranged to impart a continuous feeding movement to theshoe past the stitch forming devices.

To assistin the "feeding of the work, the needle is mounted toreciprocate with the-work in the line of feed. With the, presentconstruction, the needle 69 is mounted on a support orframe 86 '(seeFigs. '2 and 1'7) which extends rearwardly of the machine, and issleeved to turn on a vertical pivot shaft 83. A rearwardly extending arm90 formed on the hub of the support 86, carries a cam'roll 92 which isarranged to engage in :a

peripheral cam groove in the cam disk 94 on the sewing shaft 16, so thata reciprocatory movement is imparted to the support and the needle Anexceptionally simple reciprocation imparted to the needle, provides asubstantially straight. line i movement of the needle in the line offeed, and has. -the further advantage that it makes possible asimplified and more compact arrangement of the moving parts in the headof the machine.

. The machine illustrated in the drawingsis provided with a side lastinggripper which acts progressively along the sides of the shoe to pull inand position the side portions of the upper with relation to the weltand insole in advance of the sewing operation. In the illustratedconstruction,

the operation of the sidelasting gripper is auto- -matically controlledas the sewing operation progresses around the shoe to cause the gripperto operate intermittently and progressively along the side of the shoein time with-the stitch forming devices, to ceaseoperating as the sewingproceeds about the toe which has preferably been previously molded, andfinally to resume opera tion again as the sewing is continued along theother side of the shoe. As shown in Figs. 2 and 4 the gripper is locatedadjacent to and immediately in advance of the needle in the line offeed,

and is mounted on the needlesupp'ort to move with the needle in the line'of feed. The jaw 12 comprising one of the cooperating members of thegripper is rigidly formed on a curved carrier arm 2'10 which is providedwith an offset portion 212 pivotally secured at 214 to the needlesupport 86. At its upper end the arm 210 is connected through a link 216to a downwardly extending arm of a lever 218 sleeved to turn on a pivotshaft 280 mounted on the machine frame. The lever 218 is rocked aboutits pivot to impart movements to the gripper jaw 12 toward and away fromthe work by means of a cam actuated lever 282 pivoted on the shaft 280,and provided at one end with a cam roll 284 arranged to ride in a camgroove 286 formed in one face of the cam disk I66. At its forward endthe cam lever 282 is pivotally connected to a curved rod 288 which isloosely fitted to slide in a sleeve bearing 29%? formed in a forwardlyextending arm of the lever 218. A compression spring 292 coiled aboutthe rod 288 between a nut 294 on the rod and the sleeved portion of thelever 278 tends to rotate the lever 218 in a clockwise direction to holdthe forwardly extending arm in yielding engagement with a collar 296 onthe pivoted upper end of the rod 288. With this arrangement of theparts, the lever 238 is moved yieldingly in one direction under thepressure of the spring 292 to move the gripper jaw 12 towards the work,and is moved positively in an opposite direction to retreat the gripperjaw by the engagement of the sleeved portion 290 of the lever 218 withthe shoulder 296. Cooperating with the gripper jaw I2 is a second jaw 14pivotally mounted thereon at 298, and provided with a forwardlyextending arm 300 which is connected by means of a link 302 to theforward end of a cam lever 304 loosely pivoted to turn on the pivotshaft 280, and provided at its rear end with a cam roll 306 whichengages in a corresponding cam groove 308 in the face of the cam diskI66. In order to provide a yielding gripping engagement of the two jaws,the link 302 is arranged to slide in a corresponding aperture 3l2 in theforward end of the cam lever 304. The movement of the link 302 withrelation to the cam lever 304 is limited in one direction by theengagement of the lever 304 with a collar 3E4 formed on the link 302,and in the other direction by means of a compression spring 3l6 coiledabout the upper end of the link 362 between the sleeved portion of thelever 304 and an adjustable nut (M8 on the link 302.

The gripping jaws engage the upper close to the sewing point and areactuated during each stitch forming cycle to tension the upper until theneedle enters the work, at which time the grasp on the upper isreleased, and the upper is left free to be drawn into its final positionagainst the shoulder of the insole. The pivotal point 2'l4, about whichthe gripper carrier 210 swings, is located above and to the rear of thesewing point in such a position that the gripping jaws mounted on thecarrier move over the sole of the shoe simultaneously with their risingmovement so that the movement of the gripper carrier imparts a combinedupdraw and overdraw movement to the jaws. A simple and efficient lastinggripper mechanism is thus provided, and comparatively simple and directconnections between the gripping jaws and the cam shaft can be utilizedfor closing the jaws and giving them the required upper-tensioningmovements.

To enable the gripper to be thrown out of operation, the lever 218 isprovided with a rearwardly extending arm provided with a bearing surface320 arranged for engagement with the upper end of a lengthwise movableand vertically arranged control bar 322 which is journalled through abearing 324 in the machine frame. With this construction and arrangementof parts, a vertical upward movement of the control 322 will move thelever 218 about its pivot in a counterclockwise direction against thepressure of the spring 292 to raise the gripper jaw 72 and the jaw 14cooperating therewith out of operative engagement with the work againstthe pressure of of the spring 292 to raise the gripper jaw 12 and tothrow the gripper jaws out of and into operation when predeterminedpoints on the shoe are reached during the sewing operation throughconnections to-the pattern cam shaft, as will be hereinafter described.

The novel and improved welt slashing device of the machine (see Figs. 2,3 and 5 to 15 inclusive) comprises a welt slashing knife 330 which isarranged to slide in a guideway formed in a bracket 334 on the machineframe, and is provided with an oblique cutting edge indicated at 332. Inorder to position the welt with relation to the welt slashing knife, thewelt is arranged to pass over a guiding surface 336 formed in thebracket 334, and is also supported on a curved guiding surface 338formed on a guiding member 340 which is pivotally secured at 342 to thebracket 334. The welt is positioned laterally in the guiding member 340between a side plate 344 forming part of the member 340 which engagesthe channel edge of the welt and an adjustable block 346 which ismounted on the end of a pin 348 journaled to slide in a bearing 349formed in the bracket 334 and screw-threaded at its other end to receivea sleeve nut 350. A knurled head 35! on the sleeve nut 350 provides aconvenient means for enabling the operator quickly and accurately toadjust the position of the block 346 to conform to the width of the weltstrip. The guiding member 34% is provided at its rear end with a camroll 352 which is arranged to engage with a cam surface 354 on the underside of the knife, so that on each forward reciprocation of the knife,the cam roll 352 riding on the surface 354, will cause the guidingmember 340 to be rotated about its pivot 342 to bring the welt into thepath of the knife. For tensioning the welt and to maintain it accuratelyin position on the guiding surfaces above described during the operationof the knife, a frictional braking device is provided comprising a pinplunger 363 journaled in the guiding member 340, and a compressionspring 362 coiled about the plunger between the guiding member 346 and africtional disk 364 formed on the inner end of the plunger. A collar 366mounted on the outer end of the plunger 360 and held in place by a crosspin 368, limits the movement of the plunger under the pressure of itsspring 362.

In the preferred form of this feature of the invention herein disclosed,the welt slashing knife is mounted to reciprocate towards and from thewelt in the line of feed of the welt with the fiat side of the knifeblade in a plane extending parallel to the flash side of the welt in adirection transversely of the welt, and with the obliquely relation tothe braking device above described and the cooperating surface 336, sothat the movement of the guiding member 340 about its pivot as the knifeis advanced will bend the welt The and cause the knife to cuttangentially into the curved outer or flesh surface of the welt. Themovement of the guiding ;member340 and welt supported thereon intothepath of the knife is limited to leave approximately a thickness ofwelt below, the plane of movement of the knife blade. 7 7

As best shown in Figs. 12 and 15, the cooperative movements of the weltguiding member 340 and the oblique blade of the welt knife cause ashearing out to'be made in the flesh side of the welt which extendspartially through the welt strip to within a predetermined distance ofthe grain side of the welt, and at the sametime extends across the fleshside of the welt nearly to the welt channel. With this arrangement ofthe Welt slashing device, it will be seen that a slashing cut will bemade which will leave substantial' ly the same amount of stock intact soas not to unduly weakenthe welt, and yet to permit it to be readilyturned about the toe of the shoe, regardless of any variations in thethickness or the width of the welt being used. In view of the fact thatthe out will extend only to a predetermined movements are imparted tothe knife for slashing ly sleeved to turn on the pivot shaft I60.

depth, and thereafter run substantially parallel to the grain side ofthe welt, a wide latitude can be permitted in the adjustment of theforward throw of the knife blade without substantially affecting theefficiency of the device.

The connections through which reciprocating the welt, comprise a pinion310 secured to a rock shaft 3l2, and arrangedto engage with a rack 374formed on one edge of the shank of the sliding knife 838. A secondpinion 378 on the shaft 3l2 engages a gear segment 318 formed on ahorizontally extending arm of a bell-crank 380 loose- The bell-cranklever 388 is oscillated about its pivot to reciprocate the welt slashingknife,'when rendered operative, by means of a latch connection which isarranged to lock the bell-crank 380 to move with one of the camactuating levers I58 for the looper. This connection comprises a latch382 pivoted at 384 on the laterally extending arm of the bell-crank 380,and provided at its upper end with a flange 386 adjustably positioned bylocking nuts 888 to engage and look a laterally extending arm 390 ofthecam lever I58 between the flange 386 and an abutment 392 on thebellcrank 888. A compression'spring 394 seated in a recess formed in thebell crank 380 and arranged to bear against an arm 386 on the latch 382,tends to hold the latch inlocking engagement with the arm 388 of the camlever M8. The latch 382 is normally held in inoperative position outofengagement with the cam'lever I58 to maintain the welt slashing deviceinoperative, by means of a lever 888 which is loosely mounted to turn ona pivot shaft 400, and is provided with an abutment 402 arranged toengage with. a nib 404 on the lower end of the latch 382. A tensionspring 48? connected at one end to the lever arm 898, tends tomaintainthe abutment 402 in engagement with the nib 404 on the latch 382to hold the latch in its inoperative position.

The latch release lever arm 398 is moved away from the latch 382againstvthe pressure of the spring 48'! to release the latch and permitthe bell-crank 380 to be locked into operative relationship to thecamlever I58, and is later caused to return and disengage the latch throughcon-- the slashing of the welt onlylaround the toe portion of the shoe.These connections comprise a bell-crank lever 408 which is pivotallymounted to turn on the pivot shaft 400, and has an upwardly extendingarm provided at its upper end with a V-shaped cam surface 4l0 which isarranged to engage with a corresponding V-shaped detent pin 4I2journalled to slide in a bearing M4 in the upper end of the latchrelease lever 398. A spring 4l3 coiled about the pin 4l2 between ashoulder formed in the bearing M4 and an enlarged portion of the pintends to hold the pin in a depressed position in the path of the camsurface M0 of the lever 408. The horizontal arm of the bell-crank 408 isconnected through a link' 416 to a lever arm 4I8 (see Figs. 1, 3 and 16)which is secured to the forward end of a rock shaft 420 journalled in abearing 422 in the base 58 of the machine. A downwardly extending arm423 secured to the rear end of the rock shaft 420, is connected bya'horizontal link 424 to an arm 426 secured to a vertical rock shaft428. Another arm 430 on the rock shaft is connected by a link 432 to oneend of a cam actuated lever 434 which is loosely mounted to turn on ashaft 438,-and carries at its other end a cam roll 44,0which engageswith a cam 442' on the pattern cam shaft 444 of the machine. A tensionspring 458 connected at one end to the horizontal arm of the bell-crank408 and at its other end to the machine frame, tends to maintain theupper arm of the bell-crank to the left, as shown in Fig. 2, and actsthrough the intervening connections described, to hold the cam roll 440in engagement with its cam 442. The lower end of the control shaft 322for throwing the side lasting grippers out of operation is alsopivotally connected at its lower end at 452 to the lever arm 4l8 (seeFigs. 1 and 3), so that the operation of this mechanism is alsocontrolled from the cam 442.

In the performance of the sewing and side lasting operations around theshoe sole, thev side lasting grippers commence operating when themachine is thrown into operation from the starting position at theshank, are thrown out during the sewing operation around the toe, andare again rendered operative as the stitching operation returns alongthe other side of the shoe to the shank. Theslashing devices, on theother hand, are inoperative at the beginning of the sewing operation,andup to a point somewhat in advanceof the time when the point ofoperations reaches the toe, and are then thrown into operation only toslashthat portion of the welt which is to be laid about the toe, beingthen again disconnected. The several steps in the operation of themechanism controlled by the cam 442 for automatically throwing the sidelasting and welt slashing mechanisms into and out of operation areillustrated in Figs. 2 and 5 to 9 inclusive. As shown in Figs. 9 and 16,the machine is in stop position with the follower 448 of lever 434 on ahigh portion of its cam 442, the upper arm of the bell-crank 408 beingshown at the limit of its movement to the right, and with the controlbar 322 fully raised into engagement with the lever 218 to raise thelasting gripper out of operating position. starting the machine, the camroll 440 rides onto a low portion of the Baltimore cam 442, causing theconnecting link 4H6 to be depressed, moving the V-shaped portion 0 ofthe bell-crank 408 past the spring detent M2 to the extreme left asshown in Figs. 2 and 5, and depressing the control rod 322'to allow thelever arm 218 to move about its pivot under the pressure of the Uponspring 292, so that the lasting gripper is brought into operatingposition with relation to the work. In order to start the slashingdevices as the point of operation approaches the toe of the shoe, thecam roll 44!! is arranged to ride onto a somewhat higher portion of itscam, slightly raising the arm H8 and moving the bell-crank 408 about itspivot, so that the upper end MD of the bell-crank moves the latchrelease lever 398 away from the latch 382 to permit the latch under thepressure of its spring 394 to be moved into locking engagement with thearm 390 of the looper actuating cam lever I58. The parts in thisposition are illustrated in Fig. 6. The control bar 322 has not at thistime been raised sufliciently to interfere with the operation of theside lasting grippers. When the toe is reached, the cam roll Mil ridesonto a still higher portion of its cam M2 to further raise the lever armH8, moving the bell-crank 498 to the position shown in Fig. 8, and atthe same time causing the control bar 322 to engage with and rock thelever 218 to throw the lasting grippers out of operation. While thepoint of operation is progressing about the toe, the cam roll 44!) ridesonto a still higher portion of the cam 442, further raising the arm M8and moving the upper end of the bell-crank 453 to its extreme positionto the right, as shown in Fig. 9.

This movement of the bell-crank 408 causes the V-shaped cam Ml! to rideunder the spring detent ll2 as the further movement of the latch releaselever 398 positively arrested by engagement with the stop 462, so thatthe lever 398 is permitted to move again to the left under the pressureof its spring 48'! to disengage the latch 382 and disconnect theslashing mechanism (see Fig. 9). As the point of operation now passesfrom the toe to the side portion of the sole, the cam roll 44B ridesagain onto the low portion of the cam G42, depressing the control bar322 to permit the resumption of the side lasting operation, the partsbeing now in the position shown in Fig. 4.

The nature and scope of the present invention having been indicated, anda machine embodying the several features of the invention having beenspecifically described, What is claimed is:

1. In a lasting and sewing machine the combination of inseam sewing andlasting instrumentalities including a needle, a lasting gripper, a shoesupporting jack, means operating in accordance with a predeterminedpattern for relatively moving the jack and said instrumentalities totransfer the point of operation about the shoe, and means for actuatingand controlling the lasting gripper in timed relation to the relativemovements of the jack and said instrumentalities in accordance with saidpattern in transferring the point of operation about the shoe to drawthe desired portions of the upper tightly into position during theoperation of the stitch forming devices in sewing the inseam.

2. In a lasting machine, the combination of fastening means, means fortensioning successive portions of an upper over the bottom of a last, ashoe supporting jack, means for relatively moving the jack and thefastening and tensioning means to transfer the point of operationconsecutively about the shoe, and means including a pattern cam actuatedin timed relation to the progress of the point of operation about theshoe for controlling the operation of the tensioning means arranged torender said tensioning means inoperative during the transfer of thepoint of operation about a predetermined portion of the shoe sole.

3. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing andlasting instrumentalities including a needle, a gripper, means foroperating the gripper to tension successive portions of the upper, ashoe supporting jack, means for relatively moving the jack and saidinstrumentalities to transfer the point of operation about the shoe, andmeans including a pattern cam actuated in timed relation to the progressof the point of operation about the shoe for rendering inoperative saidgripper operating means during the continued operation of said sewinginstrumentalities about a predetermined portion of the shoe.

4. In a lasting machine, the combination of fastening means, means fortensioning successive portions of an upper over the bottom of a last, ashoe supporting jack, mechanism for imparting turning and positioningmovements to the jack to transfer the point of operation about the shoe,and means controlled in timed relation to said jack actuating mechanismto render said tensioning means inoperative during the transfer of thepoint of operation about a predetermined portion of the shoe sole.

5. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of sewing andlasting instrumentalities including a needle, a gripper, means foroperatingthe gripper to tension successive portions of the upper, a shoesupporting jack, means for imparting feeding, tipping and turningmovementsto the jack to transfer the point of operation about the shoe,and means acting in timed relation to the movement of the jack to renderinoperative said gripper operating means during the transfer of thepoint of operation about a predetermined portion of the shoe sole.

6. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of a shoe supportingjack, means for imparting continuous movement to the jack to transferthe point of operation about the shoe, a needle arranged during piercingcontact with the work to move with the work in the line of feed, agripper operating to tension successive portions of the upper andarranged during said tensioning movement to move with the work in theline of feed, and a stationary channel guide for positioning the workwith relation to said sewing and lasting instrumentalities.

7. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of lasting andsewing devices comprising a needle, a movable support on which theneedle is mounted to move with the work in the line of feed, and agripper operating to tension successive portions of the upper mounted onsaid needle support to move with the needle in the line of feed.

8. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of lasting andsewing devices comprising a needle, a gripper operating to tensionsuccessive portions of the upper, a needle support moving in the line offeed during piercing contact of the needle with the work, andconnections from said support for moving the gripper with the needle inthe line of feed.

9. In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination with shoe guidingand positioning devices, of a needle, a gripper operating to tensionsuccessive portions of the upper, a needle support mounted to swingabout a vertical pivot located at one side of the line of feed, andconnections from the support for moving the gripper with. the needle inthe line of feed.

10; In a lasting and sewing machine, the combination of inseam sewingand lasting instru:

mentalities including a curved hook needle, a lasting gripper comprisingjaws arranged to engage the upper close to the sewing point, a

carrier upon which one of the jaws is rigidly lasting gripper comprisingjaws arranged to grasp the shoe upper close to the sewing point, 20

a carrier upon which one of the jaws is rigidly supported, pivotallymounted above and to the rear of the sewing point to cause the arm toimpart a combined updraw and overdraw movement to the gripper, a pivotalconnection between the other gripping jaw and the carrier, a cam andsuitable connections for actuating said last mentioned jaw to grasp andrelease the upper, and a cam and suitable connections for actuating saidcarrier to tension the upper.

12. A welt sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devicesincluding a needle for sewing a welt to a, shoe, welt slashing devices,

'a gripper for tensioning successive portions of of operation about theshoe, and connections conjack, and a pattern mechanism for impartingfeeding, tipping and turning movements to the jack to transfer the pointof operation about the shoe, said pattern mechanism comprising a cam andconnections actuated by said jcam to render inoperative said gripperduring the transfer of" thep'oint of operation'about the toe, and forrendering the welt slashing mechanism operative to slash only thatportion of the welt to be laid about the toe. 7

14. In a lasting and sewing machine, the cornbination of sewing andlasting instrumentalitiesv including a needle, a gripper, means for'operating the gripper to tension successive portions of the upper, ashoe supporting jack, and a pattern mechanism for imparting feeding,tipping and turning movements to the jack to transfer the point ofoperation about the shoe, said pattern mechanism comprising a cam and.connections actuated by said cam to render inoperative said gripperduring the transfer of the point of operation about the toe. V v

- ALFRED R. MORRILL,

